fall in love with bitter fruit.
three tasty, low-fuss recipes that celebrate the great fruit that is grapefruit
easy peasy grapefruit squeezy
In today’s newsletter I’ve got three winning, simple, on-the-table-in-30-minutes-or-less, major for flavour recipes that all get their jazz and zing from one of my favourite (and, in my opinion, one of the most underrated) fruits ~ none other than the big dawg grapefruit. He’s that complex, hard-to-read, sometimes bitter, sometimes sweet, yet always get’s the party going friend that we all have in our lives. If children are oranges and adults are lemons, grapefruit might just be the moody teenager of the citrus family:
its skin is thicker than others
the range of taste in different grapefruit varieties is vast, from the sweeter ‘not actually a grapefruit’ NZ grapefruit (poorman’s orange), to the classic ruby red flesh grapefruit, to the ancestral pomelo with its green skin, sweeter flavour and bright pink flesh.
how its taste is perceived is hugely dependent on the eater. Based on someone’s genetics, bitter-taste receptors may be more sensitive to the bitter notes of grapefruit - for instance my partner gets bitterly disappointed every time I make a meringue pie that he thinks is lemon and then finds I’ve snuck a grapefruit into the filling. Much like a teenager who can split, grapefruits can be rather divisive
but undoubtedly, especially when grapefruit is used to mingle with more savoury flavours that can moderate or complement its bitterness, it can really bring some good times wow factor to a dish (enter grapefruit star-of-the-show recipes below).
For some reason I’ve always had an affinity for grapefruit. I mean, when I say always, I can’t remember us ever having grapefruit at home growing up in the lower South Island. But at least since I first tried a grapefruit, I’ve had a soft spot for them. Maybe I’m less sensitive to bitterness. Maybe I’m just always rooting for the underdog. Maybe it’s out of sadness for the grapefruits that fall and rot in neighbourhood yards across Hawke’s Bay every year.
Anyhow, I’m on team grapefruit, and I know that the recipes below will convince any of you who are doubters that grapefruits have a lot more going for them than you might think.
I want to be a grapefruit?
For this week’s recipes, I’ve refocused into some of my principles of Eating Who I Want to Be… which has led me to believe that perhaps in eating who I want to be, being a grapefruit might be just that!
These recipes are all deeply rooted in fresh seasonal produce, using either homegrown or Aotearoa produce (ie the carrot salad below used carrots and kale from the garden, coriander from the local Otago farmer’s market, and shallots grown by my mates Erika & Matt in Marlborough).
They try to hit that sweet spot I’m aiming for with being approachable but also interesting, with some new flavour combos this week. They’re also relatively planet-conscious, with minimal cooking involved, and keeping ultra processed ingredients to a minimum (flavour boosters like soy sauce etc. an obvious exception) - even things like tofu, which when made overseas has some intensive processing involved, is made locally and sold in Dunedin at the Otago Farmer’s Market, for less of a production footprint.
Most importantly, the grapefruits themselves that I’ve used are 100% Aotearoa homegrown. It continues to just blow my mind to smithereens when I see someone at the supermarket opt for the US-produced orange that looks perfectly symmetrical and that almost fluoro neon colour, rather than the cheaper in-season NZ oranges next door. Sure, they’re paler and more blemished, but God knows they’re going to taste a million times better, and are better for you, and the planet. For the past month, I’ve been looking at the oranges at the Dunedin Hospital cafeteria (whose food is sadly supplied by the high-flying, under-cutting Compass Group - a multinational BRITISH catering company), and despite it being prime time for the most delicious oranges from the East Coast of the North Island (I was up there a couple of weeks ago at the Gizzy oranges were plentiful and top notch), every time I’ve looked at the oranges, they’ve either been from the USA or Australia! One day I did get an orange just to see what it tasted like, and I kid you not it was up there with the top 5 driest and worst oranges I’d ever tasted. I cry orange tears for this madness. Especially when you’re in a health setting where local food with optimal nutrition is the commonsense best option for patients. If there’s one things I hope that you take away from today (if you don’t already do this), is prioritise buying Aotearoa-grown in-season produce.
Spring can be a slow time for NZ fruit, as we await the glory of summer stone fruit, berries and melons, but try not to be too tempted to purchase imported out of season goods. Be brave with your cooking, and try leaning more into the winter citrus that is still in its prime.
If you’ve ever got grapefruits on hand, they are a great option to use as the base of a quick salad dressing or vinaigrette. Think of it as a substitute for lemon juice or vinegar. In fact, I actually would choose grapefruit over lemon when making a salad dressing, as it has a more complex flavour than its yellow sister ~ its bitter notes often complement other flavour notes in a salad rather nicely.
When thinking about flavours that go well with grapefruit, I find it mingles well with most herbs, but especially mint and coriander. In the realm of spices, chilli, black pepper and ginger go well, as their heat/kick balances the bitterness quite effectively. Similarly, umami flavours like soy sauce or miso paste have a symbiotic effect with the zip and zing of grapefruit that pairs nicely. It also does well with creamy flavours/textures - eg the creaminess of the tofu or Greek yoghurt as seen in the recipes below.
First up today is a great little salad number, my Toasted coconut, cashew, carrot & kale salad with malt-miso-grapefruit dressing. Very versatile, and perfect for bringing to any optimistic late spring barbecues you might be invited to in the coming weeks. It gets some heartiness from the kale that softens beautifully with the grapefruit’s acidity, and different textures and tones from the carrot, toasted coconut, cashews and coriander really amp up the flavour. Malt vinegar is an ingredient that is far too often overlooked, reserved for your mint sauces and the like, but it’s a great ingredient to think more about when making salad dressings. It adds another welcome dimension when combined with the grapefruit and white miso paste in this salad’s dressing.
We’ve also got my Bright tofu with crisp greens and golden grapefruit-soy dressing. Again leaning heavily on grapefruit for the dressing, but the dressing is heated and used to soak the golden raisins which have an even fruitier flavour than regular raisins. Soy sauce and grapefruit juice are a surefire combo, and with the different textures of the crunchy celery and daikon, soft tofu, and crispy garlic/ginger/chilli topping it’s a real journey in the mouth that’s mighty addictive.
And so as not to disappoint the sweet tooth out there, a ridiculously simple (yet very flavourful) quick dessert option with my recipe for Grapefruit with good things & yoghurt. Light and refreshing, perfect for spring eating.
Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):
Citrus - late lemons, grapefruit, oranges
Asparagus
Avocados
Early spring beans & peas
Brassicas (broccoli, caulis, cabbages)
Hardy greens - cavolo nero, silver beet, kale
Beetroot
Carrots
Early strawberries
Spinach
Spring onions
Onion weed
Brain food:
grapefruit origins ~ the forbidden fruit of the Caribbean
ever thought about the genetics of taste perception?… here’s an interesting systematic review on the topic
complaining about the price of olive oil? some useful reading for perspective
the global water crisis we’re not talking about
for the fish lovers, try this grapefruit & saffron ceviche recipe
As I’m writing the close of this week’s newsletter, I’ve been picking at what’s left of the toasted coconut, carrot and kale salad that’s been sitting on the dining table for the best part of 8 hours ~ can confirm that it is just as good as when I made it this morning. Can’t stop, won’t stop.
I hope you’ve all been enjoying the longer evenings and warmer temps. Cheers to fresh, simple spring eating.
Much love,
Alby xx
Toasted coconut, cashew, carrot & kale salad with malt-miso-grapefruit dressing
I feel like carrot salads are rather underrated. I love the lack of cooking involved in a classic carrot salad, and carrot brings great texture with a nice balance of sweetness and vegetable savouriness. If you’re looking for an easy, seasonal carrot salad that also feels a little bit fancy (but really isn’t), this is the recipe for you. I’ve opted for a combination of peeled ribbons and grated carrot, which with kale and shallots are soaked in the most gorg dressing. Grapefruit, malt vinegar and miso form its base, and with a heavy dose of toasty nutty coconut, plenty of fresh coriander and some cashews for extra yum, it’s a perfect salad for the spring season while grapefruits are abundant.
Hands-on Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
serves 8 as a side
Cost Estimate: $15
Ingredients
finely grated zest and juice of 1 grapefruit
4 cloves garlic, finely grated/chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp malt vinegar
1 tbsp Shiro (white) miso paste
1 tbsp maple syrup
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground ginger
60 twists of cracked black pepper
3 medium carrots
100g kale, central stalks removed, leaves roughly torn into small bite-sized pieces
2 shallots, sliced thinly into rings
70g thread coconut
1 medium bunch coriander, leaves picked
100g roasted cashews
Method
For the dressing, in a large bowl, whisk together the grapefruit zest, grapefruit juice (should be about 75ml), garlic, olive oil, malt vinegar, miso, maple syrup, ground coriander, ginger and cracked black pepper.
Using a vegetable peeler, peel each carrot lengthways into long ribbons. I do this on one plane of the carrot until I can’t peel any further, then flip the carrot over and peel ribbons on the reverse side. Add to the bowl with the dressing. Grate any remaining carrot (you will be left with some of the core) and add to the bowl. Add the torn kale and shallots, and using your hands, spend a couple of minutes massaging the dressing into the kale and carrot, squeezing to soften and allow the flavours to mingle with the vegetables. Set aside for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a frying pan over medium heat, toast the coconut for a few minutes,tossing occasionally until golden and beautifully toasted. Transfer to a bowl.
To finish the salad, add three quarters of the toasted coconut and most of the coriander leaves to the salad, using tongs to toss through evenly. Transfer the salad to a serving platter and scatter over the remaining toasted coconut, roasted cashews and a final handful of coriander leaves.
Alby’s Advice:
to make this gluten-free, sub out the malt vinegar for a gluten-free vinegar substitute
could easily use lemon or lime zest/juice in place of grapefruit - although I do love the slight bitterness that grapefruit adds here
feel free to use whatever roasted nuts you have on hand.
this salad will keep well refrigerated if making in advance. Just save some of the toasted coconut and cashews for scattering over when serving.
Bright tofu with crisp greens and golden grapefruit-soy dressing
This recipe is inspired by a block of silken tofu that sat in my fridge for a whole month, winking at me whenever I opened the door. After a few weeks thinking about what to do with it, I finally landed on the flavours of this recipe ~ part influenced by grapefruit season, part influenced by my celery in the garden that’s currently bolting. I’ve become a big fan of golden raisins since trying them in a celery salad a la Ixta Belfrage recently, and this has loosely inspired the thought behind this dish. The raisins are heated and soaked in a grapefruit, soy, rice wine vinegar and maple liquid that brings the bitter, sweet, salty, savoury and umami, to then be tossed through the crisp, fresh salad and drizzled over the cooling tofu. You could easily serve this atop a bowl of noodles for a more filling main, but it goes great as a light main or sharing plate as is.
Hands-on Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
serves 2 as a main, 4 as a sharing plate
Cost Estimate: $12
Ingredients
finely grated zest of 1 grapefruit
75ml freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
50ml light soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp maple syrup
50g golden raisins
4 tbsp canola oil
1 long green chilli, sliced thinly
4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
20g fresh ginger, peeled, sliced thinly and chopped into long strips
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 large celery stalk/rib, diced into thin 5mm pieces
4 spring onions, sliced diagonally into 2cm pieces
75g daikon radish, thinly sliced into rounds with a mandoline
300g soft/silken tofu, drained and sliced into 1-2cm thick rectangles
Method
For the dressing, place the grapefruit zest, juice, soy sauce, rice wine vinegar, maple syrup and raisins in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to the boil and simmer vigorously for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes, to allow the raisins to soak and become plump.
Heat the canola oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Once hot, add the chilli, garlic, ginger and cumin seeds. Fry for 2-3 minutes, until the aromatics are golden, crisp and fragrant. Pour the oil and crispy bits into a bowl and set aside to cool.
Place the celery, spring onion and daikon in a large bowl. Pour over two thirds of the dressing and the raisins. Toss through and leave for a few minutes to let the flavours mingle and the salad soften a little.
To serve, arrange the tofu down the centre of a lipped serving platter, with the slices slightly overlapping. Spoon the salad and its dressing around the tofu. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the tofu to evenly coat. To finish, spoon the crispy aromatics and their oil down the length of the tofu. Serve at room temperature ~ either on its own for a light meal, or with noodles for a more filling main.
Alby’s Advice:
Golden raisins can be found at some supermarkets, Indian food stores and other specialty food stores. Alternatively you can use regular raisins.
This dressing goes excellently with many other combos - even just tossed through simple salad greens.
You could easily swap the tofu for some baked fish or poached chicken as a meat-based alternative.
Grapefruit with good things & yoghurt
Sometimes it’s nice to keep life sweet and simple. As much as I love extravagant desserts and comfort bakes, I truly believe that something as simple as fresh fruit made a little bit special can be equally satisfying. In the method, I’ve given instructions on how to supreme a grapefruit - if you’re wanting to learn a new skill and make the grapefruit segments extra clean and fancy. As you can tell in the pic above, I did a very loose supreme when photographing this recipe, hence why there’s still plenty of pith on the outer edges. Still tastes just as good.
Hands-on Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
serves 2-4 as a light sharing dessert or as part of a breakfast spread (easily doubled)
Cost Estimate: $4
Ingredients
1 large NZ grapefruit, peeled and sliced into segments
2 tbsp honey
¼ tsp chilli flakes
1 small handful mint leaves, sliced thinly
150g unsweetened natural Greek yoghurt
sea salt flakes, to finish
Method
To supreme the grapefruit (cut into clean segments), trim the bottom and top so you have a flat surface to the grapefruit with some flesh exposed. Place cut side up on a board and following the contour of the grapefruit, slice lengthwise between the flesh and peel to remove the peel and pith. Holding the grapefruit over a medium bowl, to catch the juices, slice along the edge of a membrane (this is what separates each segment) towards the centre of the fruit. Do the same along the adjacent membrane so the cuts meet, releasing the segment into the bowl below (you may need to use your hands to release the segment). Repeat, slicing along the edge of each membrane to release all of the segments. Discard the leftover membrane/pith.Â
Place the honey and chilli flakes in a small saucepan over low heat. Melt the honey until just starting to bubble, then pour the honey and chilli flakes over the grapefruit segments and their juice. Add the mint, gently toss to coat the grapefruit evenly, and set aside for 10 minutes.
To serve, spoon the yoghurt onto the base of a lipped serving plate, spreading out with the back of a spoon. Top with the grapefruit segments and drizzle over any remaining liquid from the bowl. Sprinkle with sea salt flakes and serve immediately -Â place in the centre of the table with spoons for sharing.
Alby’s Advice:
Be sure to cut the grapefruit into segments over a bowl - this can get a little messy, but you want to catch all those juices so they can mingle with the warm honey.
Can easily swap out the grapefruit for orange, mandarin, lemon etc.
It might seem odd, but the sprinkling of sea salt flakes really lifts this!
swap the honey for 1 tbsp maple syrup and use Greek-style coconut yoghurt if wanting this to be vegan.
Great recipes Alby, I hadn’t thought of using grapefruit in a dressing like this but it’s a very logical idea. My hot tip for you is to look out for old-school grapefruit knives in op shops - they have a curved, finely serrated blade that makes grapefruit ‘carving’ a breeze.