magic ways with magic beans 🌱
giving new life and flavour to the humble broad bean
If you were to write a ranking list of the ‘coolest’ vegetables in town, I imagine the humble broad bean (also known as fava bean) would be well down the hierarchy - that is to say, if it even makes the list at all. My younger self experienced broad beans as many of us perhaps do - plants of an older generation, adored by the green-fingered grandfather, seemingly planted not by strong desire but to merely fill the late-winter gap in the growing calendar.
I remember podding broad beans as a child, on the verge of my grandparents’ vegetable patch. While the plants presented with abundance, heaving with long green promise, I was often left disappointed. A pile of pods would quickly pile, to be discarded to compost, and a relatively meagre harvest of fat grey mini-kidneys was left to fill the bowl; the pod:bean ratio leaving a lacklustre taste. The grey kidneys would be boiled and served, to a slightly slimy, nutritious but ultimately ordinary outcome; ‘cool’, broad beans were not.
But after successfully growing broad beans for the first time this year (we previously grew them in Whangārei, but moved house before we could reap what we’d sowed), I can confidently say that broad beans are, as Mike Posner might say, cooler than me. Firstly, how epic is it that they can tolerate frosts and therefore cooler or temperate climates; where the cold might stunt the growth of lesser vegetables, as long as they are exposed to decent sunshine and sheltered conditions, the hardy broad bean can be grown throughout Aotearoa. Then there is their uniquely beautiful black and white flower (or the less traditional scarlet-flowered variety is equally impressive), pictured above, an epiphany of the crop soon to come. Broad beans also improve soil health through nitrogen fixation, which is a massive plus for the garden. But the ‘coolest’ thing about the broad bean is something which seems obvious now, but was a relatively recent revelation for me; you can actually eat the entire plant - leaves and all!! And most importantly, podding broad beans is necessity no longer; eating the whole vegetable - pod, beans and all - is the real deal.
As you would fresh sugar snap peas, you can grill and eat the whole broad bean pods (or younger ones are often tender enough to be eaten fresh). How ‘cool’ is that?! So this week I’m sharing a couple of ripper recipes that encourage you to use the whole pod in all its glory, starting with a rice pilaf that’s fit for a king. For those who find it hard to access fresh broad beans locally, you can easily substitute them with green beans in a pinch.
Baked cauliflower & broad bean pilaf with sumac & lemon
I love a one-pan-wonder, and other than grilling the beans to add at the close, this one-pan pilaf is a delicious miracle. Soaking the rice first is important, to remove excess starch and aid the cooking process in the oven. Don’t be fearful of eating the whole cooked lemon rind - it softens as the pilaf bakes in the oven and brings BFE (big flavour energy) with its sharp lemon lift.
Hands-on Time: 40 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
serves 6 as a main
Ingredients
300g basmati rice
1 medium cauliflower, cut into medium florets (about 600g florets)
1 large brown onion, thinly sliced
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger
1 small green chilli, finely chopped
2 tbsp sumac
1 tbsp coriander seeds, roughly crushed in a mortar and pestle
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp cracked black pepper
½ tsp sea salt
100ml olive oil
500ml vegetable stock
100g dried currants
2 lemons, ends trimmed, sliced thinly into rounds, seeds removed
To finish
300g whole broad beans (in their pods), ends trimmed
3 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
cracked black pepper
1 medium bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves (about 20g), roughly chopped
1 large handful coriander leaves, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve
50g roasted pistachio kernels, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
Method
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan-forced (or 200°C conventional).
To prepare the rice, place the rice in a sieve and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear. Transfer the rice to a bowl, cover with cold water and set aside to soak for 30 minutes while you roast the cauliflower.
For the cauliflower, to a large bowl, add the cauliflower florets, onion, garlic, ginger, chilli, sumac, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, turmeric, black pepper, salt and olive oil. Toss to evenly coat the vegetables in the oil and spices. Tip into a large high-sided roasting/baking tin (about 33 x 23cm), spreading out into an even layer. Roast for 30 minutes, stirring at halfway, until the cauliflower is tender and golden. As the cauliflower roasts, place the stock and 400ml boiling water in a saucepan over low heat to keep warm in preparation for assembling the pilaf.
To assemble the pilaf, once the cauliflower is tender, transfer half the cauliflower/onion mixture into the large bowl from earlier and set aside (you will toss this through the pilaf later). Drain the water from the rice and add the rice to the roasting tin, along with the currants. Toss through the vegetables to mix then spread out into an even layer. Arrange the lemon slices over the rice in a single layer, to cover. Bring the stock liquid back up to a simmer, then pour this over the rice, without stirring. Cover the tin tightly with two layers of foil to seal and bake for 30 minutes, until the rice is cooked through and liquid absorbed. Remove from the oven, and leave to rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
To finish, place the whole broad bean pods in a large bowl, add the olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and toss to coat. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the pan is very hot, add the beans and any oil from the bowl to the pan in a single layer. Grill for about 2 minutes on each side, until nicely charred and starting to soften. Add the grilled beans to the bowl with the reserved cauliflower and onion, along with the chopped parsley, coriander, pistachios, lemon zest and juice, tossing to combine. Remove the foil from the pilaf, fluff up the rice with a fork, then add the broad bean mixture to the pilaf, tossing through evenly. Sprinkle with extra coriander leaves and pistachios. Serve warm.
Obviously there is still a place for eating podded broad beans too, and while the broad bean season is relatively narrow (ie September-November), you can purchase frozen single-podded broad beans from most local retailers. My biggest advice is that double-podding broad beans, especially if they’ve been frozen, is a good idea, as you skip the sometimes tough grey casings and get straight to the tender green beans within. To double-pod broad beans, place the single-podded broad beans in a bowl, cover with boiling water, and leave for 3 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water, then you should easily be able to pop the broad beans out of their husks to be left with the tender bright green beans. In my cookbook, Good Vibes, I’ve got a couple of killer recipes that can be made using double-podded fresh or frozen broad beans, including a soul-warming Broad bean & leek dal as well as a Baked orzo with broad beans, lemon, caramelised pears & feta.
As you read this it’s highly probable I’m eating my 5th Bibimbap of the day somewhere in South Korea ~ so look out for some likely Korean influence in my next edition. And perhaps a list of the ‘coolest’ vegetables should be on the cards too…
Much love,
Alby xx
This week’s MOOD BOOSTER:
Grilled broad beans with asparagus, elderflower, preserved lemon + hazelnuts
I promised a savoury elderflower recipe in my previous newsletter, and here is a spring salad that you NEED to make before November closes. As always, try source the freshest ingredients possible, as this will make the flavours sing. If elderflower cordial is unavailable, substitute with maple syrup or honey. Feel free to swap in whatever fresh herbs you have available in your garden, and you could also turn this into a more hearty lunch with the addition of cooked bulgur wheat, quinoa, noodles or your favourite protein.
serves 4-6 as a side
Ingredients:
300g whole broad beans (in their pods), ends trimmed
3 tbsp olive oil
sea salt
cracked black pepper
200g asparagus spears, woody ends trimmed
1 medium bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves (about 20g), roughly chopped
1 large handful mint leaves, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve
1 large handful coriander leaves, roughly chopped, plus extra to serve
1 small green chilli, finely chopped
50g roasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped, to serve
Preserved lemon + elderflower dressing
skin of ½ preserved lemon, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely grated
3 tbsp elderflower cordial
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
⅓ tsp sea salt
Method:
First make the dressing. Place all dressing ingredients in a jar and shake until well combined. Set aside to allow the flavours to mingle.
For the beans, place the whole broad bean pods in a large bowl, add the olive oil, season with salt and black pepper, and toss to coat. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the pan is very hot, add the beans and any oil from the boil to the pan in a single layer. Grill for about 2 minutes on each side, until nicely charred and starting to soften. Return the grilled beans from the pan to the large bowl. Take each asparagus spear and using a potato peeler, shave along the length of each spear to create long thin ribbons of asparagus. You will reach a stage where the asparagus is too thin to hold and shave ribbons from - at this point, roughly chop the leftover spears into 1cm pieces. Add the asparagus ribbons and pieces to the broad beans, along with the chopped parsley, mint, coriander and chilli.
To serve, shake the dressing again to mix, and pour half of the dressing over the beans, tossing through the vegetables to evenly coat. Transfer the greens to a medium-large serving platter. Drizzle with the remaining dressing, then finish with the chopped roasted hazelnuts, and a scattering of mint and coriander leaves.
Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):
Broad beans
Brassicas
Spinach, Salad Greens
Asparagus
Elderflowers
Blood oranges
Avocados
Early strawberries & blueberries
Early capsicums
Early aubergines
Kitchen music of the moment:
We love a spotify suggest, and this week the algorithm absolutely nailed it with this track, introducing me to indie pop meets soft rock duo Tommy Lefroy. It’s got attitude worth listening to.
And via a similar introduction, I’ve also been jamming this American alt-rock band, Wallows, perfect music for the upcoming summer-chill-out-kick-back-road-trip-day-drinking-sun-burn-season that’s about to arrive.
Interesting reads:
More broad bean ideas from the incredible Nicola Galloway (aka Homegrown Kitchen)
I was lucky enough to spend time on The Food Farm in North Canterbury last weekend - the homegrown permaculture-informed brainchild of Eat NZ CEO Angela Clifford and her partner Nick.
Over 600,000 New Zealanders (11% of the population) are accessing food rescue services each month. Here’s one initiative helping to address the need.
How about a broad bean scotch egg?! Now I’ve heard it all.
Signed copies of my cookbook Good Vibes are now available for purchase through my website - with NZ wide delivery! Get your personalised copy today (in my unbiased opinion it makes the perfect Christmas gift).
