my P obsession: the fruit you oughta eat
four formidable recipes to get creative with persimmon
Hello strangers…
…lol JK 😂
When you’re used to pumping out weekly newsletters, a two-week gap seems like an AGEEEEEEEEE (yeah right!). Thanks to everyone for your understanding of the temporary shift to a fortnightly publication. Hopefully it’s given you some extra time to try out some of the recipes from previous editions of Eating Who I Want to Be. You’ll be pleased to know I still found myself standing at the kitchen bench yesterday, semi-frantically trying to stir some ideas together at the stove to share with you all on this lovely Sunday morn.
Before I launch into this week’s newsletter, the theme of which I am very very pumped about (go the big orange P!!), I have some exciting news to share with you all. You may recall that back when launching Eating Who I Want to Be, I wrote that my intention was to bring you, and I quote, “Possible guest appearances from other Aotearoa food writers (TBC)”.
Well, I am pleased to inform you that the possible TBC is now the confirmed. For the next Eating Who I Want to Be (June 30th) I’ll be handing over the reigns to my friend, fellow Eat New Zealand Kaitaki and one of Aotearoa’s most impressive chefs and food writers, Lavinia Small.
Lavinia (Lavi) is a chef and writer/poet, currently based in Ōamaru, whose mahi is focused on exploring food as a means of storytelling. She has worked as a chef around the globe, as well as head chef in a number of Aotearoa establishments. Lavi has generously offered up her skills, artistry and expertise, and will be the guest writer for the next newsletter, sharing a collection of timely pumpkin recipes for us all to learn from and enjoy. It’s a special thing to hear from someone with such experience and talent, so be sure to keep your eyes on your inbox for two Sundays’ time!
my P obsession: the fruit you oughta eat
My love affair with persimmons began in Northland. In fact, I’m not sure that I’d ever eaten a persimmon before I moved up to Whangārei.
Out the door, across the bridge, up the hill, across State Highway 1, past the McKay Stadium and across the street there she was. Beautiful green-turning-golden foliage, sprawled out and heaving with bright orange globes. A hop-skip-and-a-jump from my front door, there was the most glorious of glorious persimmons trees. I’d seen persimmons the odd time before at the supermarket, yet for some reason had never given them a go. Was it because they were in the fruit section but looked like a tomato? Was it their too-bright-orange-to-be-natural skin, their alienness? Was it that I always seem to be on such a god damn mission whenever I’m at the supermarket that taking an extra few seconds to consider trying something not on my agenda had never occurred? Seeing the persimmon actually growing on the tree, in my neighbourhood, triggered something in me to try them (case in point of why it is SO SO important for us all to be able to connect with where our food comes from in a tangible way!). And I quickly realised that persimmons grow like hotcakes in Northland: I was in persimmon paradise. I cry orange tears for my years of missed persimmon eating now.
Just last week, I was at the checkout at the local Pak’nSave (I buy almost all my produce from the local farmers’ market or take from the garden, but sometimes there’s certain fruits that are grown up north that I will foray to the super for). And of course, in preparation for this newsletter, I was purchasing quite a number of persimmons. I got chatting with the girl at the checkout (as you do), having kicked it off with a fruity conversation starter (do you prefer limes or lemons? I asked her… what an idiot!). She had moved to Aotearoa from the Phillipines 1 year ago, because of her family, and was missing her home very very much. I was shook when she said “aren’t limes and lemons more or less the same”, but forgave her quickly. As the persimmons came up to the scanner, she suddenly got rather excited.
“Do you like these?” she asked. Not a silly question considering there was a mighty stack of persimmons heading her way.
“I love them”, I replied with far too much enthusiasm for a piece of fruit.
“Someone bought one the other day, they said they’re kind of like an apple. I’ve never tried one, but I want to!”
“Yeah, I guess they’re kind of like an apple. You can bite into it, eat the skin and all like an apple, but the flavour is more subtle, kind-of honey-like… the best way to know is by eating one. You’ve never tried one?! Oh, you have to! You’ll have to make it your goal for this week to try a persimmon!”
She smiled and laughed, noncommittally, but then as I was paying, she said, “when I see you next, I’ll tell you what I think of it.”
I proceeded to wheel the trolley over to the packing bay, and as I was packing the persimmons into the bag, I realised the obvious. As I was leaving the supermarket, I left the trolley briefly and returned to the girl at the checkout, where she was busily scanning through three packets of chocolate wheatens for a ‘love’s a chocolate wheaten’ looking lady. I tapped her on the shoulder, she turned around, and I presented to her a persimmon. “You’ll have to eat it tonight!” I said, and then walked away, the chocolate wheaten lady looking rather confused as the girl grinned from ear to ear. She’ll be P obsessed in no time.
So persimmons, what are they?
Persimmons are an old fruit. Dating back over 2000 years to East China, persimmon fruits are technically a berry in the botanical sense (like a tomato), with each fruit coming from a single flower that blooms from the branches of this deciduous tree.
Persimmons actually tolerate remarkably cold temperatures during their dormant phase (down to -15°C), but they do need reasonably warm weather for fruit to fully ripen over the summer months, ready for a late autumn harvest. There are two general types of persimmons: astringent (persimmon which are quite high in tannins and are unpleasant to eat unless completely softened or prepared properly) or non-astringent (the ones you can eat like an apple, my preferred type). The Fuyu persimmon is the non-astringent, tomato-shaped variety that grows well in Northern Aotearoa and is seen on the supermarket shelves at this time of year. It’s the persimmon I love, and the persimmon we’ll be cooking with this week.
I’ve really been on a roll with plant-based recipes the past few newsletters. In fact, it may feel to some of you like Eating Who I Want to Be is a plant-based newsletter. Which for the most part I guess it is, as this is in line with some of those values that the newsletter is aiming to achieve. But for those who dabble in the realms of fish, meat, eggs and dairy, you’ll be pleased to know that this week I’m mixing up the formula.
For free subscribers, we’re diving into taco town, with quick-and-easy monkfish tacos that are set alive by the most wonderful fennel, persimmon, preserved lemon slaw/salsa thing that is a great option for fun weeknight eating. We’ve also got a sweet-yet-savoury sharing plate, great as a starter or part of a mezze-style meal, Hot lemon honey persimmons with mint labneh and pistachio-fennel dukkah.
For paid subscribers, this week’s newsletter has definitely been worth the wait. You’ll also be getting the MOST comforting and easy autumn pulled pork, the flavour amplified by persimmons that tenderise and melt into caramelised deliciousness as the pork roasts. Plus a Thai-inspired black sticky rice pudding, paired with a persimmon & lime compote that is winter warming dessert right when we need it.
Cooking from Good Vibes: This past week I received the most lovely email from a lady who had tried this recipe from the Connect chapter of Good Vibes, my Persimmon & red onion tarte Tatin with crispy sage & feta. She was wondering what I usually paired it with, and if I thought it was more savoury or sweet, given it straddles the fence of these two domains so curiously. While this was intended to be served as more of a savoury dish (e.g. with a sharp salad with some bitter leaves and herbs), it made me realise that it could just as easily slide into the dessert-ish category. And it reminded me how much I love recipes that don’t sit squarely in one camp ~ it really challenges our sometimes strict perceptions of food and meal brackets in an endearing way. This recipe from Good Vibes has a special place in my heart, and is perfect to try this persimmon season.
Be sure to remember to scroll down to the bottom for links to other interesting foodie reads I’ve spied from the past weeks’ media. Embrace the orange, and get ready for even MORE orange with Lavi’s guest feature pumpkin era next time.
Much love,
Alby xx
Fish tacos with preserved lemon, fennel & persimmon
Who doesn’t love a taco? I love fish, not just for its health benefits, but also for its ease and speed for cooking - a great option for when you want a quick weeknight meal that feels just a little fancy. I’ve opted for monkfish here, but any firm white flesh fish will do well. The persimmon really does well to jazz things up here. You can feel free to make substitutions with whatever you have on hand as well - thinly shredded cabbage instead of fennel (although the flavour will be very different), yoghurt in place of sour cream. If you’re feeling game, it’s also a lot of fun to make your own tortillas, and a lot easier than you might think - there’s an easy recipe for Corn tortillas on page 228 of my cookbook Good Vibes.
Hands-on Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
serves 4-6, makes about 12 tacos
Cost Estimate: $26 (about $2-$2.50 per taco)
Ingredients
Kinda-slaw
1 medium fennel bulb (about 250g), fronds attached
skin of 1 preserved lemon, finely chopped
1 long green chilli, finely chopped
1 large Fuyu persimmon, ends trimmed and diced into 1cm pieces
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 large handful mint leaves, chopped
4 tbsp olive oil
½ tsp sea salt
Crema
200g sour cream
2 cloves garlic, finely grated
finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
1 ½ tbsp finely chopped gherkin
⅓ tsp dried dill
sea salt, to taste
Fish
600g monkfish fillets (or other firm white flesh fish), cut into 5cm pieces
1 ½ tbsp cornflour
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground paprika
⅓ tsp garlic powder
½ tsp sea salt
3 tbsp olive oil
To serve
soft corn tortillas, warmed
chopped fennel fronds
lemon wedges
Method
First prepare the fennel. Remove the fennel fronds from the fennel bulb and finely chop. You want about 15g (a few tablespoons). Slice the bottom off the fennel bulb and using a mandoline, shave the fennel from the bottom to the top into very thin 1-2mm slices. Place the shaved fennel and chopped fronds in a medium bowl, saving a few extra fronds for garnish later.
To make the kinda-slaw, add the remaining ingredients to the fennel, toss together to evenly combine, and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
For the crema, place all ingredients in a bowl and mix together until well combined; set aside.
For the fish, pat the fish pieces fry with paper towel. In a bowl, mix together the cornflour, coriander, paprika, garlic powder and salt. Add the fish pieces and toss through the spice mixture to evenly coat. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the coated fish for about 2 minutes on each side, until cooked through. Remove from the pan onto a plate.
To serve, gently warm the tortillas in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat for 15-30 seconds on each side. Stack and cover with a tea towel to keep warm. Spoon dollops of the crema down the centre of each tortilla. Top with some of the kinda-slaw, a couple of fish pieces, and some extra chopped fennel fronds, with lemon wedges on the side for a final zing.
Alby’s Advice:
Always buy the freshest fish you can find - I suggest having a look online for your closest local fish monger, and try to ensure the fish is caught sustainably.
This recipe is also gluten-free, as it uses maize-based cornflour in the fish coating, and the tortillas are made of corn.
This is also a great meal idea for cooking with friends - especially if you make your own tortillas! The cooking conveyor belt is a thing of beauty.
Hot lemon honey persimmons with mint labneh and pistachio-fennel dukkah
Another great recipe for straddling the line between sweet and savoury, creamy, herby, garlicky strained yoghurt combines beautifully with the honey-sweetness of the persimmons. The lemon honey, spiked with subtle chilli really gives it all a lift, with a bit of texture from the dukkah. The dukkah makes far more than you need for this dish - it’s ideal for having in the pantry for a quick flavour boost at short notice.
Hands-on Time: 25 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes (plus overnight for the labneh)
serves 6 as a sharing plate
Cost Estimate: $12-$14 ($2 per serve)
Ingredients
Hot lemon honey persimmons
40g honey (or maple syrup if vegan)
finely grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
½ tsp chilli flakes
pinch of sea salt
2 Fuyu persimmons
Mint labneh
500g Greek yoghurt (or Greek-style coconut yoghurt if vegan)
½ tsp sea salt
1 large handful (15g) mint leaves, plus extra to serve
3 cloves garlic
1 tbsp olive oil
Pistachio-fennel dukkah
75g pistachio kernels, roughly chopped
2 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp sesame seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp cracked black pepper
¼ tsp sea salt
Method
Prepare the labneh the day prior. Place the yoghurt and sea salt in a bowl and mix to combine. Line a sieve with doubled cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Pour the salted yoghurt into the cheesecloth, fold the corners over to cover and place a gentle weight on top (e.g. a mug or block of butter). Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours (or up to 3 days) to allow some liquid to strain from the yoghurt.
For the hot lemon honey, place the honey, lemon zest, lemon juice, chilli flakes and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook until starting to bowl, then pour into a bowl and set aside to cool.
To make the dukkah, toast the chopped pistachios in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 3 minutes, until lightly toasted. Add the fennel, sesame and coriander seeds and toast for a further 2 minutes, until the pistachios are becoming golden and the seeds are fragrant and toasted. Transfer to a mortar & pestle and grind until the seeds form a coarse powder around the chopped pistachios, still with some texture and crunch. Stir through the black pepper and salt; transfer to a bowl.
For the persimmons, slice the bottom off each persimmon and using a mandoline (or a sharp knife), slice the persimmons into thin discs - you want the slices to be pliable but maintain their structure. Place in a bowl and pour over the cooled lemon honey, gently tossing through to coat all the slices. Set aside for a couple of minutes.
To finish the labneh, bring the corners of the cheesecloth together and twist to squeeze out any extra liquid. Transfer the thickened yoghurt to a bowl. In a mortar and pestle, bash/grind the mint leaves and garlic together until crushed to a green paste. Add this to the yoghurt, along with the olive oil, and stir to evenly combine.
To serve, spoon the labneh onto the base of a serving platter, spreading it out into a disc with the back of a spoon. Gently nestle the persimmons in the centre of the labneh. Sprinkle generously with the dukkah (you will only need about one-third, store the remaining dukkah in an airtight container for later). Drizzle with some of the remaining persimmon liquid, and finish with a scattering of mint leaves. Serve as a sharing dish with torn flatbreads ~ perfect for a starter or mezze-style meal.
Alby’s Advice:
Do be careful when slicing the persimmons to not slice them too thin, otherwise they will lose their shape when bathed in the lemon honey.
Also be sure that the lemon honey has cooled before pouring over the persimmons - if this is hot, then the persimmons can turn to mush.
Store any leftover dukkah in an airtight container.
Black sticky rice pudding with persimmon & lime compote
Rice puddings are very very underrated. Especially as we are into the winter months, a warm creamy bowl of rice pudding really hits the spot. Remember to always soak your rice in advance, as this helps to tenderise it and reduce the cooking time (saving energy too!!). The rice pudding itself here is relatively traditional, naturally plant-based and using black glutinous rice and pandan leaves for its subtle vanilla flavour. It’s usually made with palm sugar, but I’ve opted for the more ubiquitous brown sugar in my version (mainly because it’s what I had in my cupboard at the time). The persimmon &. lime compote is what sets my recipe apart from the usual, and I think it works really well here without overpowering the subtle flavours of the pudding. The compote is also great with oats, yoghurt, or alongside pancakes.
Hands-on Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 45 minutes (plus rice soaking time)
serves 6
Cost Estimate: $12 (about $2 per serve)
Ingredients
Black sticky rice pudding
300g black glutinous rice
5 pandan leaves (fresh or frozen and defrosted), tied in a knot
400ml can coconut cream
¼ tsp sea salt
120g soft brown sugar
toasted thread coconut or coconut chips, to serve
Persimmon & lime compote
3 Fuyu persimmons (about 650g), peeled and chopped into 1-2cm pieces
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp golden syrup
60g soft brown sugar
¼ tsp ground ginger
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
Method
First prepare the rice in advance. Rinse the rice in a sieve with cold water until it runs clear. Transfer the rice to a medium bowl, cover with cold water and soak the rice for a minimum of 4 hours (or overnight).
For the compote, place all ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the persimmon is softened and the compote has reduced and nicely thickened. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
To make the rice pudding, strain and rinse the rise through a sieve, then transfer the rice to a large saucepan. Add the pandan leaves, 200ml coconut cream, salt, and 1.25 litres of water. Place over medium-high heat, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 35 minutes, stirring every few minutes then more regularly towards the end, until the rice is tender but with a subtle bite, and the liquid is reduced, thick and creamy. Remove from the heat and stir through the brown sugar.
To serve, ladle the warm pudding into bowls, drizzle with the remaining coconut cream, and top with the persimmon & lime compote.
Alby’s Advice:
Frozen pandan leaves can be purchased from most Asian supermarkets. Just run the frozen leaves under some warm water to defrost.
Black glutinous rice is also found at Asian supermarkets.
The rice pudding can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge. Loosen with a little water when reheating.
Autumn pulled pork with red cabbage & persimmon
This pulled pork recipe really is the epitome of easy flavour. All you have to do is mix everything together, then bang the Dutch oven or casserole dish in the oven for a few hours to let it do its thing. Great in buns, tacos, or flatbreads, or equally good with slaw, rice or another hearty salad. Also a great option for the slow cooker, if that’s your preferred method.
Hands-on Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 3 hours 45 minutes
serves 8
Cost Estimate: $22 ($2.50-$3 per serve)
Ingredients
200ml coconut cream
100ml apple cider vinegar
100ml white wine
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp light soy sauce
1 tbsp honey
2 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp sea salt
¾ tsp ground chilli
1.5kg pork shoulder or leg, bone-in
2 Fuyu persimmons, ends trimmed and diced into 2-3cm chunks
300g shredded red cabbage (from ¼ red cabbage)
Method
Preheat the oven to 150°C fan-forced (or 170°C conventional).
For the pulled pork, place the first 12 ingredients in a medium-large (about 25cm) Dutch oven or casserole dish with a lid. Whisk together until well combined. Trim any excess fat or skin from the pork. Pat the meat dry with a paper towel. Using a sharp knife, score the meat diagonally a few times, making cuts just 1cm deep. Add the pork to the Dutch oven and using your hands, massage the sauce into both sides of the meat. Add the chopped persimmon and shredded cabbage, tossing together with the pork and sauce to coat. Cover with the lid, and cook for about 3 hours 30 minutes, or until the meat is tender and falling apart.
Carefully remove the pork from the sauce onto a chopping board. Using two forks, pull the meat into shreds. Return the pork to the Dutch oven and mix through the sauce to absorb all the moisture and flavour. Serve warm in flatbreads, tacos or buns with your favourite slaw.
Recipe Note: Alternatively, cook the pork in a slow cooker on LOW for 8-10 hours or HIGH for 6 hours until tender and falling apart.
Alby’s Advice:
If reheating the pork, loosen with a little water.
You can easily swap the white wine for extra apple cider vinegar, or vice-versa.
Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):
Citrus - lemons, limes, late mandarins
Apples, Pears
Persimmons
Pumpkins
Leeks
Carrots
Brassicas (broccoli, caulis, cabbages, Brussels sprouts)
Hardy greens - cavolo nero, silver beet, kale
Kiwifruit
Celery
Mushrooms
Beetroot
Brain Food:
One of NZ’s leading organic community farms needs your helps to stay alive. Show your support if you can (especially Aucklanders in the Ponsonby area).
A new documentary that begs the question: Can self-interest and profit be put aside to ensure the food future of our planet?
Food produced ‘out of thin air’? One company in Europe is working on a food revolution. Listen to the interview on RNZ.
In case you were wondering, yes, there is a NZ band called Persimmon, have a listen
**Note: This newsletter was originally titled ‘My P addiction’. Out of respect for those with addiction issues, I have changed the title of this newsletter to ‘My P obsession’ (edited on 19/06/24). If you or a whānau member is struggling with addiction or substance use, here’s a list of Aotearoa services that may be a helpful first step for support.