potlucks, cheesecake and kaffir lime triumphs
four flavour-fierce recipes and some tips for the winter potluck season
potlucks… more than meets the eye?
While barbecues rule the warmer months, I truly think that winter is the season of potlucks. The essence of a potluck lends itself to cosying up with friends on a cool August evening, windows steamed up from too much banter and an active kitchen, comforting traybakes and warm slow-cooked kai covering the table with love and good vibes.
For the most part, I’ve always appreciated a potluck, and feel we don’t nearly do enough of them. But I know this feeling is not shared by everyone ~ my partner for one has never seemed to warm to the idea of potlucks, albeit he’ll still happily contribute if the invitation is offered. And I know he’s not alone in this. We’re all somewhere on the potluck spectrum.
stirring the metaphorical pot
Perhaps for some, it can feel like an obligation ~ more than happy to go round to someone’s house for dinner, but less keen to be told that they need to bring something. For others the uncertainty that comes with a potluck may be off-putting. Who knows who your friend may have invited to the potluck, and what their idea of a delicious meal might be?!
Then there’s the risk that everyone brings a potato gratin ~ as much as I enjoy a good gratin, there’s only so much creamy mandolined potato this boy can take. At least it’s not 6 pasta salads though (this definitely happened at one pot luck I went to, or perhaps it was a nightmare…) ~ then you’re well and truly screwed.
Or perhaps people have a profound fear that the dish/container they take their home cooked meal in will be forever lost in a pile of potluck dishes, never to be seen again. I wonder what happens to all those potluck vessels… do you think they’re all hanging out together somewhere? I hope so.
you’ll never look at peoples’ potluck dishes the same again…
For me though, the positives far outweigh any of the above apprehensions or inconveniences that people may feel about potlucks. One of the greatest joys of going to a potluck meal is that for the effort of cooking one dish yourself, you get to go on an absolute flavour journey by trying ten different dishes in one delicious hit! The time:benefit ratios are in everyone’s favour - I mean, what’s not to love?!
For those who need a bit more convincing, if you’re keen to take a sneak peek into the secret lives of others, then it’s always interesting to try what someone brings to a potluck; it’s a tiny window into not only what food they might consider acceptable to eat, but also what food they feel comfortable and confident to share with others. How does the food one brings to a potluck represent the person who brings it? Do they play it safe and bring the tried-and-proven, Mum’s secret recipe? Are they brave and playful, choosing to try a new recipe on a group of strangers for a bit of a fun? Do the store-bought bread rolls mean they’re going through a stressful time, or are ridiculously busy, or it’s what they always had at the dinner table growing up, or perhaps they just really love the New World bakery? A potluck is a gateway to understand what kai means for others, and to taste their love and personality in what they’ve prepared for the table.
At this point I do want to stress, for anyone who’s ever been to a potluck with me before, or may do in the future, that for the most part I do not think about the above when I’m at a potluck. I may work in psychiatry, but I am not psychoanalysing your potluck choices LOL. I’m merely writing down a flight of ideas that one might consider when reflecting at a potluck, given I’ve decided to go into this topic today.
The true reason I love a potluck is that it brings people together over kai. The sense of community, and connections that can be made between different groups of friends and whānau is a beautiful thing. For anyone to bring kai and share it with me, no matter where it’s come from, who’s prepared it, or what it tastes like, is the most humbling expression of love that I am always grateful for ~ and a potluck has this in abundance!
all hail the potluck queen
The reason that potlucks are on the mind this week, is because one of today’s recipes has been heavily influenced by a potluck I went to recently.
I have no qualms in declaring, rather confidently, that Ōtepoti is home to the QUEEN of potlucks. Apologies to those who feel this title is rightfully theirs ~ you’ll be hard pressed to successfully challenge the royal throne on this one.
I’ve been lucky enough to find myself out in picturesque Company Bay on two occasions now for a potluck, hosted by friend and work colleague Rochelle (part witch, part octopus, part bloody great time!). One was in Summer, more BBQ style out on the deck; the other more of a wintry indoor vibe. But I kid you not, the potluck kai on both occasions has been out-of-this-world. I’m not sure if Rochelle has intentionally curated a group of friends around her that are all on the DL absurdly good cooks, but I tell you, the food at these potlucks have really raised the bar! I think the other part that makes the potlucks so successful is Rochelle’s sereneness as potluck host. Four people need to heat something in the oven at different temperatures? Water off a duck’s back.
It was at the most recent of Rochelle’s potlucks that I encountered the absolute flavour bomb which has inspired the lentil recipe I’m sooooooo happy to share with you all today.
For those who are not acquainted with Ixta Belfrage (former Ottolenghi Test Kitchen member) and her food, I hope that after today you look her up and start fangirling over her like I have been for the past few years. Some of you might be familiar with the cookbook Flavour - an Ottolenghi cookbook that was co-authored by Ixta. And in 2022, she released her debut solo cookbook, Mezcla, which is one of the absolute faves in my cookbook collection. Her cooking draws inspiration from her family and their connections to Brazil, Italy and Mexico ~ which unsurprisingly means that her recipes are big on flavour in the most interesting and creative ways.
So back to the potluck. Rochelle is also a big fan of Ixta, and had made the Red curry sweet potato gratin from her book Mezcla, especially for the occasion. I’d seen it in the book but never tried it, and with one mouthful I was sold. It’s remarkably simple, but the combination of kaffir lime, tomatoes and coconut milk in the gratin really is a mouth-watering one. I don’t know about the rest of you, but food lingers on my mind long after the last bite, and if I try a new flavour combo or dish that really sparks something in me, it takes a long time to shake it. This potluck was a couple of months ago, but I’ve been thinking about that gratin ever since ~ and thus have finally been able to capture its inspiration in this week’s newsletter recipes.
So there you have it, for any doubters out there ~ that truly is the power of a good potluck.
If you’re feeling hospitable or social in the coming weeks, I’d encourage you to put the potluck call out to some mates… and see how many gratins you can get on the table at once! Let me know if you break a new record.
If you’re looking for extra potluck advice, I found this article mildly amusing:
what’s cooking this week?
This week’s recipes really are must-makes. They’re all relatively short on effort (always ideal) and all deliver mega flavour (most importantly). The Pumpkin, tomato & kaffir lime lentils (inspired by the anecdote above), combined with the quick daikon-lime pickle really does make for a jaw-droppingly delicious plant-based comfort meal. Somewhere between a dal and a curry, all made in one pan, it’s a winner (and would make a great potluck dish too!). Then there’s my take on the cheesecake that everyone’s been talking about in recent years, the Burnt Basque cheesecake. It’s the rough-and-ready baseless, effortless cheesecake that gives you all the creamy feels without the stress. My version sees black tahini join in, for a particularly satisfying outcome. Another great dessert for a potluck - make the day prior and pull out of the fridge a couple of hours before serving. Slice and eat, easy as cheesecake!
To finish, there’s a recipe for my 20-minute, flavour-maxed Booyah! peanut tofu noodles which are really amped up by the addition of fresh celery and sprouting broccoli for welcome texture. I ate this earlier today and now I’m angry because it’s all gone and I wish it wasn’t all gone because I really want it now.
Cooking from Good Vibes: This week was my last one with the Older Persons’ Mental Health team who I’ve had the pleasure of working with for the past 6 months in a Consult Liaison psychiatry role. I felt extremely guilty for not baking much for them during a busy 6 months, but tried to make up with it on the last day with a few goodies, including this Black sesame, rose & cardamom cake with honey mascarpone icing from the Delight chapter of Good Vibes. I love seeing people’s reaction to the curious combination of flavours in this cake ~ it truly is unique, straddling the line between sweet and an almost savoury tone. You’ll never eat another cake like it!
The newsletter has crept up to over 700 subscribers as of the last few weeks ~ thanks to all of you who tune in to read my musings and learn from my recipes. Be sure to spread the word with friends and whānau - I reckon we can crack 1000 by the end of the year with your help!
Much love,
Alby xx
Pumpkin, tomato & kaffir lime lentils
Apologies for the average lighting ~ it’s been a busy week studying for an important exam next Friday, so recipe testing has had to fit in where it could. I’ve already chatted A LOT about the inspiration for this recipe, but inspiration regardless, this really is a knockout dish. It starts by roasting pumpkin and onion with tomato paste and spices until caramelised, before tomatoes, coconut milk, lentils and kaffir lime join the party, gently roasting away together to create a luscious and flavourful traybake dinner that will warm you to the core. It really is best served with the quick pickle recipe detailed below ~ see what you think!
Hands-on Time: 25 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 45 minutes
serves 4-6 as a main
Cost Estimate: $20 (about $3.50 - $5 per serve)
Ingredients
800g peeled pumpkin flesh (from about ¼ - ⅓ large pumpkin), chopped into 2-3cm chunks
2 brown onions, sliced into 1cm half moons
6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
50g fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated
finely grated zest of 1 lime
4 tbsp tomato paste
2 tbsp canola oil
1 tbsp tamarind paste
1 tbsp maple syrup
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp sea salt, plus extra to taste
¾ tsp ground chilli (adjust to desired heat)
300g dried brown lentils
400g can chopped tomatoes
400ml can coconut milk
250ml vegetable stock
4 kaffir lime leaves, central veins removed, very finely chopped
2 large handfuls fresh coriander, roughly chopped
juice of 1 lime
Greek-style coconut yoghurt, to serve
Quick daikon-lime pickle, to serve (see below)
Method
Preheat the oven to 190°C fan-forced (or 210°C conventional).
To a large high-sided roasting tin (about 33cm x 23cm), add the pumpkin, onion, garlic, ginger, lime zest, tomato paste, oil, tamarind, maple syrup, ground coriander, turmeric, salt and ground chilli. Toss together to coat the vegetables evenly, then spread out into an even layer. Roast for 30 minutes, giving the vegetables a stir at halfway. As the vegetables roast, place the lentils in a sieve and rinse with cold water until the water runs clear. Transfer to a bowl and cover with cold water.
Remove the roasting tin from the oven. Drain the water from the lentils. Add the lentils, tomatoes, coconut milk, vegetable stock, kaffir lime, coriander, and 700ml boiling water to the tin. Stir through to evenly combine with the pumpkin and onions. Cover the tin tightly with two layers of foil to seal and bake for 55-60 minutes, until the lentils are tender and the sauce thickened to a delicious dal-like consistency.
Make the quick daikon-lime pickle as the lentils bake.
To serve, remove the lentils from the oven and peel away the foil. Squeeze over the lime juice, stir, taste and adjust seasoning with a little extra salt if desired. Serve warm in bowls, with a dash of yoghurt, the pickle, and warm roti or naan.
Alby’s Advice:
Kaffir lime leaves can be found frozen at most Asian supermarkets or fresh in the herb section at other supermarkets. Kaffir lime trees also grow well in some parts of NZ and are worth adding to your garden (or even in a pot on the deck).
Adjust amount of ground chilli based on the potency of the ground chilli you have on hand, and your desired heat.
Quick daikon-lime pickle
Making a pickle to have with a curry or dal might seem like a step too much on a busy night, but when it’s this easy there’s no excuse not to! It really does help to add some freshness and acidity, and is perfect served with the Pumpkin, tomato & kaffir lime lentils above.
Hands-on Time: 5 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
Cost Estimate: $3
Ingredients
2 tsp coriander seeds
150g daikon (or other radish), thinly sliced into rounds with a mandolin
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
1 small green chilli, finely chopped
1 large handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped
1 tsp maple syrup
¼ tsp sea salt
Method
In a small frying pan over medium heat, toast the coriander seeds for a couple of minutes until fragrant. Transfer to a mortar and pestle, lightly crush, then transfer to a small bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and toss through to combine. Set aside for 30 minutes, to allow the daikon to soften a little and the flavours to mingle.
Alby’s Advice:
If you don’t have a mandolin, you can thinly slice the daikon into rounds with a sharp knife.
Daikon is found at many local fresh produce markets or Asian supermarkets, or can be easily grown at home.
Feel free to substitute the lime for lemon or grapefruit zest/juice if that is what you have on hand.
Black sesame Basque cheesecake
Cheesecake has never looked so easy. I love the deep nuttiness and grey tones of black tahini, and it goes well to offset the richness of the Basque cheesecake base. Basque cheesecakes are usually made with a little flour to help the structure, but here the black tahini fills this role, which makes this cheesecake pleasingly gluten-free for those who are coeliac. The black tahini does mean that the cheesecake is not as smooth as a traditional Basque, but I think it kind of suits its rustic charm. If you’re wondering why there’s some white specks in the picture, this is because I stupidly didn’t whisk the sour cream before adding it to the mixture - if you follow my method below, you should end up with a more uniformly grey cheesecake.
Hands-on Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 55 minutes (+ chilling time)
makes one 20cm cake
Cost Estimate: $18 (about $2 per serve)
Ingredients
500g cream cheese, at room temperature
200g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla paste
4 eggs
150g sour cream
150ml cream
70g black tahini
1 tsp flaky sea salt
Method
Preheat the oven to 210°C fan-forced (or 230°C conventional).
Grease and line a 20cm round cake tin. To do this, use two pieces of baking paper, laying them on top of each other at a perpendicular angle and pressing into the tin. The paper should be large enough to cover the base and sides of the tin with a collar of paper a few centimetres above the top. Pleats and folds in the paper are wanted here, to give the outside of the cheesecake a rustic charm.
In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, sugar and vanilla on medium speed until the sugar dissolves and is completely smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition to ensure they are fully incorporated.
In a medium bowl, gently whisk together the sour cream, cream, black tahini and salt until completely smooth. Add this to the cheesecake batter and mix together until evenly combined. Pour the cheesecake batter into the prepared tin and tap against the benchtop to level the mixture.
Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 35-40 minutes, until deeply golden on top and the cheesecake is just-cooked but with a beautiful jiggle in the centre. Leave to cool, then refrigerate until completely cold. The cheesecake is then best served at room temperature. Store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days, and bring to room temperature before serving. Slice with a hot knife for a clean cut.
Alby’s Advice:
Black tahini can be found at some supermarkets, specialty food stores or whole foods stores.
Cooking time may vary depending on your oven - trust your instincts with the jiggle.
Booyah! peanut tofu noodles with crunchy greens & chilli oil
This is one of those dishes worth ringing the bell and yelling Booyah! for yourself after you make it (if you’re a Simpson’s fan, you might get the reference). Obviously celery and peanut butter are well-acquainted bedfellows, and when mixed with moreish grilled tofu, a punchy dressing, and chilli oil lift, this will soon become a go-to quick weeknight dish for instant satisfaction.
Hands-on Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 20 minutes
serves 2-3 as a main, easily doubled
Cost Estimate: $12 ($4 - $6 per serve)
Ingredients
300g firm tofu
1 tbsp cornflour
1 tsp chinese five spice
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp turmeric
3 tbsp canola oil
200g plant-based dried noodles (e.g. Wuhan-style, udon, soba or ramen)
75g tender sprouting broccoli
100g crunchy peanut butter
50ml light soy sauce
50ml apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp maple syrup
4 cloves garlic
20g fresh ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
2 celery stalks (with their leaves), leaves and stalks diced into 1cm pieces
1 large handful fresh coriander (leaves and stalks), roughly chopped
To serve
chilli oil (my Ginger-garlic Szechuan chilli oil goes primo here)
chopped roasted peanuts
1 spring onion, sliced
fresh coriander
Method
In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornflour, Chinese five spice, ground coriander and turmeric. Pat the tofu dry with paper towel, then crumble into medium chunks into the bowl. Toss the tofu with the spices and cornflour to evenly coat. Place the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the coated tofu and cook for about 7 minutes, stirring occasionally until nicely browned and starting to crisp a little.
Meanwhile, cook the noodles in boiling water, as per packet instructions until al dente. Drain and place the noodles in a large bowl.
Once the tofu is nicely golden and getting crispy, add the broccoli to the pan and fry for 1-2 minutes, until just tender but still with some bite. Remove from the heat and add to the bowl with the noodles.
To a tall container or bowl, add the peanut butter, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, maple syrup, garlic and ginger. Blitz together with a stick blender (or similar) until a smooth sauce is reached. Add the sauce to the noodles, along with the chopped celery and fresh coriander. Mix together with tongs to evenly combine and coat the noodles in the sauce. Add a little warm water to loosen, if desired.
Serve the noodles in bowls, topped with a drizzle of your favourite chilli oil (this really lifts the dish!), a scattering of roasted peanuts, sliced spring onion and some fresh coriander to finish.
Alby’s Advice:
Don’t be afraid to use the celery leaves here as well as the stalk - they also have great flavour and texture contrast which adds to the dish.
You can easily use ordinary broccoli instead of the sprouting broccoli - it may be worth blanching the broccoli in some boiling water first though, to ensure it is still tender after a quick pan fry.
Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):
Citrus - lemons, early grapefruit, early winter oranges, late limes
Yams
Onions
Late pears
Last of the persimmons
Late pumpkins
Leeks
Carrots
Brassicas (broccoli, caulis, cabbages, Brussels sprouts)
Hardy greens - cavolo nero, silver beet, kale
Kiwifruit
Celery
Mushrooms
Brain Food:
The story behind the Basque cheesecake for the history buffs among you
Boring Oat Milk in partnership with The Spinoff are currently doing a ‘Breakfast Season’ tour around the country, with different events/panel discussions about kai. This week I attended one in Ōtepoti, a panel discussion focused on food systems, home horticulture and waste. Be on the lookout for the tour coming to a town near you.
NZ’s mental healthcare is in crisis – but research shows us how to shorten wait times and keep staff
A delicious-looking new cookbook, focused on the abundance of culinary magic crafted by chefs in the Pacific
Honest words from best-selling cookbook author Meera Sodha, reflecting on her experiences of burnout, and rediscovering her love of food