Spring things.
elderflower foraging and new ways with asparagus
it’s been a week of good spring things.
I gave you violets;
you gave me your smile.
I gave you elderflower wine;
you gave me wild strawberries.
I gave you a small brown bird
that hid in the white shadows;
you gave me the nightingale
singing to the summer midnight.
you gave me almost-tears
and rainbows;
I gave you my poems.
Exchange of Gifts, by Paul Hansford, 2016
I thought I’d start today’s newsletter with a poem, one I stumbled upon whizzing through the internet, or instagram, or something like that a few weeks ago. Every now and then, when I see a piece of writing or poetry, or I read a phrase or sentence that sparks something within me, good or bad, I jot it down somewhere. With elderflower on the mind, I thought I’d share these lines by Paul (I hope you don’t mind me sharing this wherever you are!) today. Make of it what you will :)
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I’m writing this week’s newsletter on none other than halloween, and I can confirm that the oven is dressed up for the occasion, fittingly baking a pumpkin tart à la Tarts Anon (for a murder mystery event I’m attending tomorrow) from their recently released cookbook that I picked up over the weekend to add to my ever-growing collection. When running Beau Cakes full-time last year, my love for tarts really grew. I baked tarts for my weekly Otago Museum lawn pop-up, and without a doubt they were the first thing to sell-out every time. There’s something a little bit special about a tart, where layers and textures can be created in an all-encompassing shell. I’ve decided that I want to learn how to level up my tart game further, so fingers crossed that Gareth Whitton at Tarts Anon can help me get there.
Sadly, for those that were hoping for a spooky vibe to today’s newsletter, I’ve really gone in the opposite direction, leaning in to bright, fresh and vibrant spring-y recipes to share with you today. Why? Because this week has been a week of good spring things as we head into the final weeks of the season!
Good Spring Things #1 ~ Elderflowers are IN!
Yes, that’s right, those green bushes on the side of the road that now have clumps of white flowers showing are in fact elderflowers, and yes, that means it’s time to get foraging!! I am still yet to find someone who doesn’t like the floral, fruity, citrusy, fresh flavour of elderflower, and it really is the ultimate entry level find for any of the budding foragers amongst you.
This past week, with each day the numbers of flower buds opening up seems to be increasing exponentially, and on Tuesday I managed to get out into my local green spaces with my trusty pair of scissors and tote bag for some elderflower foraging with Beau the greyhound. Honestly, if you’re feeling a little flat, heading out the door into the thick of nature, harvesting some blossoms then heading back to the kitchen to make some elderflower cordial truly is the tonic to boost the spirits.
Around this time last year, I shared an entire newsletter dedicated to elderflower foraging, where I share how to identify and forage for elderflower, as well as some top notch recipes for making your own elderflower cordial and ways to use it in a rice pudding and bundt cake. Be sure to hit the links above to find out more, and I deeply encourage you to make copious amounts of elderflower cordial while the short-lived season is ripe. There truly is nothing more satisfying than a summer glass of elderflower cordial, topped with ice, mint and soda water.
Good Spring Things #2 ~ Asparagus arrival
A very close second to elderflower, when I think of spring plants and produce, would have to be asparagus. As I write this, I’m starting to realise that perhaps I just have a particular fondness for any food that’s season is rather brief, as it makes it feel that little bit extra special whenever it arrives… and asparagus is certainly one of those vegetables that demands your attention, before it’s too late.
Last year I went on a spree of making asparagus salads. I love peeling asparagus lengthways into long thin ribbons to add texture and freshness. Equally, I love grilling asparagus in olive oil or butter in a frying pan until slightly charred, then adding a little water, covering the pan with a lid, and letting the asparagus soften to tenderness while the liquid emulsifies and braises it; chop and toss through bright greens with a punchy Dijon dressing. This past week though, a trip to WOOF bar in Ōtepoti with some pals for the monthly Asian Diner pop-up kitchen takeover saw me eating a whole new take on asparagus that I’d never tried before ~ tempura asparagus served with a lemon herb ranch and pickled peas. The asparagus was presented in its whole form, each stalk coated and fried in a crispy tempura batter that provided a texturally interesting counterpoint to the tender asparagus within. Feeling inspired, this week’s asparagus recipe is an ode to this tempura asparagus… well, at least the whole coating asparagus stalks in a batter and frying it is a parallel. Trying to lean into my Eating Who I Want to Be ‘fearless/brave’ goals this week…
For this week’s recipes, I’m starting with a loosely Mexican inspired take on deep-fried asparagus, that uses chickpea/besan flour for an earthy gluten-free batter. I’ve decided to call it my Crispy crunchy asparagus with green slap sauce, which might sound like an odd name for a sauce, but when I was eating it, my initial thought was ‘this slaps!’ so I decided to roll with it for lack of a better name. In all honesty, while deep-frying asparagus is certainly worth trying, if you can’t be bothered with the faff of heating oil in your home kitchen, you could easily just grill or roast the asparagus in its natural form, and still serve it dolloped with this killer sauce ~ I predict that I’ll be making and eating this green slap sauce for weeks, let me tell you.
Then I’m following this up with an elderflower-minded vegan loaf cake that has bright, fresh, aromatic notes of lemon and thyme to complement the elderflower that hints in the batter and in the drizzle that soaks the warm cake when it comes out of the oven. In all honesty, as great as the cake is, when it comes to a lemon drizzle cake we’re all really there for the lemon icing, and this one is a banger. I’ve detailed it in the recipe for my Lemon, thyme & elderflower drizzle loaf below, but for some reason I couldn’t get this loaf to rise evenly, despite the killer crumb inside and still baking through, so I’ve turned it on its head, so to speak, as my sneaky wee hack for when you cake isn’t quite as level as you’d like it to be :)
Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):
Citrus - late lemons, grapefruit, oranges
Asparagus
Avocados
Spring beans & peas
Brassicas (broccoli, caulis, cabbages)
Hardy greens - cavolo nero, silver beet, kale
Beetroot
Early strawberries & blueberries
Spring onions
Last of the onion weed
Early broad beans
Spinach, Salad Greens
Elderflowers
Blood oranges
Early capsicums
Early aubergines
Brain food:
tune into Futuresteading ~ a podcast focused on people prominent and humble in food, farming, health and environment, sharing practical advice
an Australian not-for-profit organisation regenerating food and farming from the ground up.
fancy sandwiches are #trending in Aotearoa and I’m here for it!
if you feel like levelling up from elderflower cordial… try elderflower champagne!
for those looking to give asparagus a go in their own garden, now’s the time to plant
I’m sure by now you’re all well and truly tired of me harping on about spring. Thank goodness that summer is just around the corner… I can’t wait to dive into the edible gifts it has to offer us… and plenty of fresh, flavoursome recipes to come!
Much love,
Alby xx
Crispy crunchy asparagus with green slap sauce
I spent a good while tossing up whether to fry my asparagus in a tempura or bhaji-style batter, and in the end I opted for the chickpea flour option ~ as it means that this recipe is also gluten-free friendly. The batter is spiced with a blend that’s loosely Mexican inspired, with the additions of cocoa, chilli and allspice, which when blended with the punchy, zingy avocado sauce makes for a nice flavour pairing. The green slap sauce is worth making in its own right - an excellent option to have in your fridge for dipping on demand, or adding to sandwiches, salads or the like.
Hands-on Time: 35 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
serves 6 as a side
Cost Estimate: $15
Ingredients
Crispy crunchy asparagus
250g chickpea (besan) flour
1 large handful fresh coriander, roughly chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp cocoa powder
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground chilli
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp sea salt
350ml soda water
canola oil, for deep-frying
500g asparagus, woody ends trimmed
Green slap sauce
flesh of 1 large avocado
finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
30g sliced pickles/gherkins (from a jar)
30ml pickle juice (from a jar of pickles)
30g fresh coriander, leaves and stalks roughly chopped
20g fresh mint leaves
2 long green chillies, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
¼ small brown onion, finely chopped
½ tsp sea salt
Method
For the sauce, place all ingredients in a tall container and blitz with a stick blender until smooth (alternatively just blitz together in a regular blender); refrigerate until ready to serve.
For the batter, to a large bowl, add the chickpea flour, chopped coriander, chilli, cumin seeds, cocoa, ground coriander, ground chilli, cinnamon, allspice and salt, whisking to evenly incorporate. Add the soda water to form a smooth, relatively thick-yet-pourable batter.
To cook the asparagus, heat 3cm of canola oil in a large high-sided frying pan, saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Ensure it is wide enough to fit the asparagus spears. You want the oil to reach about 175°C – you can measure this with a thermometer or by dropping a blob of batter into the oil: if it sizzles, floats, and starts to brown, the oil is ready. Line a large plate with a paper towel and place beside your frying station. Once the oil is at temperature, using tongs, dip an asparagus spear into the batter to fully coat, then shake to allow any excess batter to drip into the bowl. Place the coated asparagus in the hot oil. Repeat and fry in batches of 7 or 8 at a time (however many will fit in the oil without being overcrowded), for about 4-5 minutes until golden and crisp. Remove the asparagus from the oil with a second pair of tongs and place in a single layer on the paper towel-lined plate to allow any excess oil to drain. Repeat until all the asparagus has been cooked (when I made this I fried the asparagus in three batches), adjusting the heat as needed to maintain the oil temperature.
Serve the asparagus immediately, arranged on a serving platter with a scattering of chopped coriander, and with the sauce on the side for dipping.
Alby’s Advice:
make sure you drain the asparagus well after frying, to ensure it stays nice and crispy
feel free to swap up the spices in the batter with what you have on hand
wondering why it’s called green slap sauce????? Because it SLAPS!
Lemon, thyme & elderflower drizzle loaf
Full disclaimer right here, before you get into this recipe. I tested this recipe twice before sharing here, and both times the middle of the loaf sunk a little. Now usually I wouldn’t share a recipe with you for a cake that doesn’t rise evenly, but this loaf was too God damn delicious not to share. The first time I put a channel of olive oil down the middle of the loaf batter before baking (a hack that helps to give loaf cakes a nice even crack), and I thought this might have caused the sinking. The second time I baked it I left this step out, and also adjusted the raising agents - and it still sunk a little. BUT, the loaf still baked nicely otherwise, and the end result was mighty mighty delicious, with a beautiful sturdy crumb. In figuring out how to deal with this sinking issue, I realised that by turning the loaf upside down, by the time it was fully cooled the sunken top had flattened out on the bottom of the loaf - so it can still look pretty AND be delicious! In other words, do not be alarmed if your loaf sinks a little in the middle as it bakes, you'll still be glad you made it when you eat the end result.
I’ve opted for a lemon and elderflower drizzle to bathe the loaf in when it comes out of the oven. In the holes that you prick through the loaf with the skewer, this drizzle will soak into this, giving you pockets of extra moist, flavoursome sponge. This step is entirely optional - feel free to skip the drizzle, as it won’t radically affect the loaf at the end (you’ll just miss out on some of those flavoursome pockets). Make sure you finish it with the icing though, as the sharpness from the lemon against the soft loaf really takes the cake!
Hands-on Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour 5 minutes
makes 1 large loaf cake
Cost Estimate: $8
Ingredients
Loaf batter
150ml soy milk
40ml lemon juice
200g caster sugar
finely grated zest of 3 lemons
4 tbsp finely chopped fresh thyme
75ml olive oil
60ml elderflower cordial
300g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp sea salt
Drizzle
60ml elderflower cordial
30ml lemon juice
Icing
150g icing sugar
30ml (2 tbsp) lemon juice
fresh thyme leaves, to garnish
Method
Preheat the oven to 160°C fan-forced (or 180°C conventional), with an oven shelf in the lower third of the oven (you want your loaf to be in the centre of the oven when it bakes). Grease lightly with oil and line a regular 900g loaf tin (ie 23cm x 12cm x 7cm) with baking paper. Ensure there is a little baking paper overhanging the edges of the tin, so that the loaf is easily lifted out of the tin once baked.
To make the loaf, place the soy milk and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Whisk together and set aside for 5 minutes to curdle slightly. Place the sugar, lemon zest and thyme in a large bowl. Using your fingers, rub the zest and thyme into the sugar until deeply fragrant. Once the milk has curdled, add this to the sugar, along with the olive oil and elderflower cordial. Whisk well to combine. To another large bowl, add the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt, whisking to evenly combine. Add the dry ingredients to the wet and whisk just to combine. Pour the batter evenly into the lined loaf tin, smoothing the top. Bake for about 45 minutes, until golden brown and a skewer inserted into the centre of the loaf comes out clean - don’t worry if the loaf has sunk a little in the middle, we are going to flip it over later so it will flatten out. Just make sure that it is cooked the whole way through.
As the loaf bakes, make the drizzle. In a jug, whisk together the elderflower cordial and lemon juice to combine; set aside.
Remove the hot loaf from the oven, leave to cool for 5 minutes, then while still warm, use a skewer to prick holes all over the loaf. Pour the drizzle evenly over the loaf, to allow it to soak in. Leave to stand for 15 minutes, then with the help of the baking paper to lift the loaf, remove from the tin and place on a wire rack to cool fully at room temperature. You can peel off the baking paper from the sides to help it cool quicker. Once fully cooled, place the loaf upside down on a serving platter, so the flat base of the loaf is facing upwards.
For the icing, in a small bowl or jug, whisk together the icing sugar and lemon juice. Drizzle the icing evenly over the cooled loaf, then sprinkle with a final flourish of fresh thyme leaves. Leave to set for 30 minutes, then slice and serve. Store any leftover loaf in an airtight container at room temperature.
Alby’s Advice:
If you can’t find elderflower cordial, substitute with an additional 30g caster sugar and an extra 15ml soy milk, and skip the elderflower drizzle step
You can easily leave out the time, and swap for 1/4 cup poppy seeds for a lemon & poppyseed loaf situation
I call for the zest of 3 lemons - I used medium-large lemons, so if your lemons are on the smaller size, use 4