The mother of all lemon cakes
celebrate with the most epic gf lemon cake that you will ever eat (and make!)
it’s been a week for celebrating
After a busy couple of weeks, today’s newsletter is brought to you from the sky, as I sit here on a plane, headphones on listening to Brat (‘cause who isn’t right now!), and tapping away on my keyboard.
Why am I Arnie Pie in the Sky? I’m flying back home from Brisbane after having the privilege of attending the most beautiful wedding in Northern NSW. There was love. There were flowers. There was dancing. There was a gelato cart (my new top wedding reco!!). And of course, there was CAKE. The perfect celebration.
In my world, there's also been cause for personal celebration as last week I sat my psychiatry exam. So you’ll be pleased to know you won’t have to hear about this in the newsletter again. Who knows if I’ve passed, but not having to spend all night flipping over flash cards has been quite nice these last few days ~ and 20 degree temperatures in Queensland has also helped with the morale.
Then flash back to two weeks ago, I was in a karaoke room belting out ‘I want it that way’, celebrating one of my good friends’ 30th birthdays after stuffing ourselves silly with pasta… and of course cake (the cake of which this newsletter is alllllll about!!). It’s been a truly joyous couple weeks.
It’s easy to celebrate when you’ve got an event or an obvious reason, or if life’s been kind to you lately. But I find sitting in these moments of celebration, it’s a reminder to also try and find the small moments in your day worth smiling about and being grateful for.
What’s the saying…….. Every day is a celebration?!
With celebration on the mind, it only seemed right that this week’s newsletter is all about the one necessity that should be part and parcel of EVERY celebration (and no I’m not talking about your sleazy uncle who’s always there, even when no one invited him, and never brings his own beers).
I’m talking about C-A-K-E.
CAKE!
When it’s the anniversary of grandma’s (aka baking queen’s) passing and you’re celebrating her life: CAKE
When you’ve managed to survive the first 3 hours of a road trip with two screaming toddlers, you pull into the tearooms and celebrate with: CAKE
When you’ve had a shit day and need cheering up, celebrate yourself with: CAKE
Then of course there’s all the weddings and birthdays and graduations and every day of the whole blimmin’ year quite frankly: CAKE!!
my perfect celebration cake
With that said, no surprises to hear that I’m actually quite partial to a cheeky slice of cake myself. Then again, who isn’t? I’m always mildly suspicious of anyone who says they don’t like cake…
We all live on a cake spectrum (yes, even you, you’re sitting on that cake spectrum right now), with different loves, hates and in-betweens. When making a cake, unless you’re a miracle worker, it’s unlikely to be the dream cake for EVERYONE who eats it. That’s just a fact. Hell, if even one person loves the cake you make, take that as a win! Everyone’s idea of the perfect cake is so varied, and I love it.
So, what does MY perfect celebration cake look and taste like?
it’s been made with love.
YES! I truly believe you can taste the emotion and love (and possibly sweat) that has been poured into a cake. And to be honest, I think anyone who has baked a cake themselves and offered me a slice is an instant hero.
it captures a slice of the personality of the person who made it, and ideally also the person whom it’s for
obviously this can be tricky if we’re talking chalk and cheese between the person who makes it and is receiving it, but I love a cake where the character of the person who made it shines through, or perhaps a part of them is translated in the decoration or flavours (perhaps it’s a jam in the middle that’s their Grandad’s recipe, or the flowers on top are from their garden). Equally, the perfect cake should channel the spirit and spark of the receiver in some way (if it’s for a specific person/occasion) ~ this could be creatively incorporating some of their favourite flavours or decorating the cake in line with how you see them: if they’re more chic and stylish, straight lines and trendy focal points may be the go; if they’re more whimsical or free-spirited, perhaps the decoration is more abstract and reflective of this.
My perfect cake does not need to look like it was carved by Michelangelo. It doesn’t need to look perfect to be perfect. There is beauty in creative expression at the expense of perfection.
layers of flavour and texture
while there’s nothing wrong with a simple sponge dusted with icing sugar, if we’re talking CELEBRATION I’m wanting a cake that tastes a little bit special. And while this starts with how the cake looks (we usually eat with our eyes first), like most things it’s what’s inside that really counts. Creating layers of flavour in cakes starts with having an overarching concept and knowing which flavours might pair well with each other. This all comes from experience and trialling different combinations. Taste, taste, taste. I always applaud bravery, but not at the expense of harmony.
The cake itself needs to be flavoursome. Is a vanilla cake enough? If you’re really making vanilla the star of the show (with quality vanilla bean etc.) then absolutely. But for the most part, I prefer the cake to be a little more jazzy. Don’t just rely on fillings in your cake for flavour. Ask yourself: would I be stoked with a simple un-iced single-layer slice of this cake? The cake layers between should be flavoursome enough to proudly be eaten on their own without using the fillings or icing as a flavour crutch.
You should also consider what you want the overall texture of the cake to be ~ and this may depend on the style of cake batter you’re working with. If it’s a light, fluffy chiffon-style cake, perhaps you won’t want to be mixing nuts through the batter as this a) will probably deflate the chiffon and b) will probably detract from the cloud-like texture. But for other styles of cake, texture can add a lot ~ think nuts, chopped crystallised ginger, chopped fruits, poppy seeds, coconut. Think about the textures of the cake as a whole, fillings included, and how the eating experience will come together.
Then it is undoubtedly the filling which is crucial to amplifying the flavour and textures of my ideal cake. You need to be thinking about the structure of the cake when you choose your fillings. A really loose or runny filling might pose a risk of leaking out of the cake or increasing the chance of collapse. A filling that’s too thick or hard (e.g. a caramel that’s taken too far) can ruin the mouthfeel of that cake slice. Think about the different aspects of flavour that you’re adding to your fillings ~ cakes are often high in fats and sugars, but think about how you’re balancing richness with sharpness/acidity, bitterness, earthiness, or even heat/chilli/spice. You can also add welcome texture as part of cake fillings ~ maple-roasted caramelised chopped nuts or toasted thread coconut, perhaps. But always think about how the textures and flavours of the fillings will pair when eaten with the cake that holds them.
Then you have the icing ~ do you choose a vanilla icing that works well with most cake flavours, or does the icing flavour also elaborate on or complement the flavours within. The occasion for the cake might then determine the texture and structure of the icing used. If it’s for a wedding, or for stacking cake tiers, then a sturdy buttercream or ganache might be needed ~ but the temperature of the venue might also influence this. You don’t want your beautiful masterpiece melting to smithereens like the wicked witch of the west. If stability is less important, then a mascarpone cream or cream cheese icing might be the preferred choice. Is your icing smooth or grainy? Meringue-based or purely dairy-based? Do you need to get creative with vegan baking ingredients? My dream cake is one where the icing is flavourful, smooth and creamy in texture, and complements the rest of the cake components, rather than dominating or detracting.
Today I’m sharing with you recipes and step-by-step instructions (including photos), to walk you through my recipe for the most epic lemon celebration cake that you will ever eat (and make!). From my gf lemon, coconut & poppy seed cake, to the most luscious lemon curd (paid subscribers), my velvety and zingy white chocolate lemon crémeux (paid subscribers), mascarpone cream and torched Swiss meringue, this really is the lemon cake of all lemon cakes. And the beauty being that each of the components are absolute golden recipes to add to your sweet repertoire, useful in their own right or to use as part of a different future dessert or cake. Don’t worry, you can thank me by giving these recipes a go in your own kitchen!
building your cake courage
Before we get any further I want to pause and give some reassurance. You. Yes, you. CAN. make. this. cake.
For reasons unbeknownst to me, layer cakes seem to hold this magical aura about them. To the average punter who’s barely held a spatula, they present as some sort of culinary engineering feat, with a touch of witchcraft perhaps; on the surface it can look mighty impressive. Even for an enthusiastic cake eater who’s starting out in home baking, levelling up to layer cake territory can give the illusion of an Everest-like challenge.
But I am here to tell you that with a little bit of patience, the right direction (me!), and ideally a few useful pieces of decorating equipment, you’ll be whipping up this glorious celebration showstopper and being crowned king of the cakes in no time at all.
Each of the components can be fairly easily made, the most crucial factor to success is having confidence and backing yourself in the process: trusting the recipes, trusting your equipment, and trusting yourself!
In saying this, if you’re new-ish to making layer cakes, it might be worth practising this one on your close whānau first, before rolling the dice and blindly attempting it for a celebration with one hundred of your work colleagues.
Keep scrolling down for this life-altering cake recipe!!!!
Cooking from Good Vibes this week…
Cooking from Good Vibes: It’s leek season, baby. Which means it’s the PERFECT time of year to be making this Caramelised leek & mushroom spaghetti with pecan pangrattato from the Thrive chapter of Good Vibes. I whipped it up earlier this week, and was stoked to hear that some other friends have also had it on play in their kitchens recently. Frying leeks lower and slower gives them a delicious deep caramelised flavour, which really shines through in this simple, speedy weeknight pasta dish. I love to keep a jar of this pangrattato in the pantry, on hand for whenever you need to quickly elevate a simple pasta dish ~ it’s lemony, crunchy, herby and more-ish.
Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):
Citrus - lemons, early grapefruit, early winter oranges, late limes
Yams
Onions
Late pears
Late pumpkins
Leeks
Carrots
Brassicas (broccoli, caulis, cabbages, Brussels sprouts)
Hardy greens - cavolo nero, silver beet, kale
Kiwifruit
Celery
Mushrooms
Brain food:
A recent RNZ supermarket price comparison to 2022. Th numbers don’t lie.
The most plant-based Olympics yet
Why is food insecurity in Aotearoa getting worse compared to the rest of the world?
Great food, classy jazz, incredible service, chic decor. If you’re ever in Brisbane, Mr Vain is an absolute must.
Tackling sustainability from an editorial economic perspective
Deepest apologies for all this cake chat that’s probably got your stomach going gangbusters now. If only these recipes and images were instantly edible. I sincerely hope there is a slice of cake either in your lap right now as you’re reading this or in your near future. Remember, you are an adult. You don’t need an excuse for cake. You CAN buy a cake for yourself. Because life is a celebration.
Much love,
Alby xx
the most epic lemon celebration cake that you will ever eat (and make!)
Yes, I know. I’m perhaps getting carried away with the superlatives for this cake. You’ve probably eaten better lemon cakes if you’re a patisserie frequenter or just so happen to be Alice in Wonderland, but as far as a lemon celebration cake that’s achievable for the home cook, it’s right up there. Yes, there are a few components. Yes, it will take more than 5 minutes to make. Yes, a kitchen blow torch is ideal to make it look pretty (but it’s equally delicious with untorched meringue). But honestly, the texture and flavour in that winning bite is worth every ounce of effort. The recipe for the lemon, coconut & poppy seed cake is for three 20cm round cakes, but if you’re not wanting to do the full celebration cake, you could easily make a single layer cake with one-third of the cake batter ingredients. It’s great as a simple gf lemon cake, dusted with icing sugar, or made slightly fancy iced with the mascarpone cream (recipe below) and some swirls of lemon curd (recipe below).
Hands-on Time: 20 minutes (cake) + 50 minutes (fillings/icing/meringue) + 30 minutes (assembly)
Total Time: 3 hours (plus overnight chilling of cakes and fillings)
makes one large, six-layer celebration cake; serves 20-24
Cost Estimate: $65 - $70 (about $3 - $4 per serve)
Ingredients
Lemon, coconut & poppy seed cake (makes three 20cm round cakes)
675g caster sugar
finely grated zest of 6 lemons
525g butter, softened to room temperature
3 tsp vanilla extract
150ml lemon juice
12 eggs
600g ground almonds
210g desiccated coconut
75g poppy seeds
4 ½ tsp ground cardamom
¾ tsp sea salt
Mascarpone cream
600g mascarpone
400ml cream
100g icing sugar, sifted
Swiss meringue
200g egg whites (from about 6 eggs)
300g caster sugar
To assemble
White chocolate lemon crémeux (see recipe below)
Lemon curd (see recipe below)
kitchen blow torch, for toasting the meringue
seasonal flowers, optional
edible glitter, optional
Method
The cakes and fillings (curd and crémeux) are best made the day prior to your event, then make the mascarpone cream and Swiss meringue on the day of assembly.
Preheat the oven to 160°C fan-forced (or 180°C conventional). Grease and line three 20cm round cake tins with baking paper.
For the cake batter, in a large bowl, rub the lemon zest into the sugar until fragrant. Add the butter and beat with an electric hand or stand mixer for 3 minutes until pale and fluffy. Add the vanilla and lemon juice and beat together until well combined. Add the eggs, two at a time, beating well after each addition until well combined and scraping down the sides of the bowl in between each addition. The mixture will curdle during this process ~ don’t worry, this is normal. In a separate bowl, whisk together the ground almonds, coconut, poppy seeds, cardamom and salt. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet until smooth and just combined. Spoon the batter into the lined cake tins, smoothing the top and tapping against the bench to ensure the batter is level. Bake for about 45 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cakes comes out clean. Remove from the oven and allow the cakes to cool for 15 minutes before removing from the tins. Leave to cool fully at room temperature, then refrigerate for a few hours (or overnight) to chill completely ~ this makes it easier to slice the each cake in half when assembling.
Make the lemon curd (recipe below) and white chocolate lemon crémeux (recipe below) at this stage, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or ideally overnight.
Make the mascarpone cream when ready to assemble the cake (ie the following day). Place all ingredients in a bowl and beat with an electric hand or stand mixer to form medium-stiff peaks. Be careful, as you don’t want to overmix and split the cream - once it’s starting to thicken, reduce the speed a little to ensure you don’t take it too far. You want it to be stiff enough that it can be piped and hold its shape nicely though, as it will create a dam around the cake fillings.
To assemble, take each chilled cake and cut horizontally in half (I do this with a bread knife, scoring around the edge so the cut is level then cutting through). You should now have six thin cakes. Transfer half of the mascarpone cream into a piping bag with a large round nozzle tip - you will use this to pipe a border dam to keep the fillings enclosed. Pipe a blob of cream onto the base of your cake stand or board, and place one cake layer (ideally a cake half that has a flat bottom) on top, crumb side facing upwards. Pipe a border of mascarpone cream around the edge, and pipe another layer of cream on top of this to create a dam. Spoon about one-third of the white chocolate lemon crémeux into the centre of the cake and spread out with the back of a spoon to evenly fill.
Place the second cake layer on top. Again, pipe a double layer border of mascarpone cream around the edge, then fill with about one half of the lemon curd, spreading out to form an even layer. Place the third cake layer on top and repeat, alternating with crémeux, then curd, and a final filling of crémeux. As you go, each time you add a cake layer, try to ensure the cake is level on top if possible and the sides are relatively straight.
Ideally the sixth and final cake layer should be a flat-bottomed one. Place the final cake layer on top of the cake, crumb side facing downwards, so that the top of the cake is beautifully flat and level. You should now have a six layer cake, with alternating fillings between each layer.
Using the remaining mascarpone cream and a palette knife, coat the cake in a thin layer of mascarpone cream to cover, ensuring you fill in any gaps between the cake layers. Try to make the sides and top as smooth as possible - if you have a cake scraper this is ideal for this. You are going to cover the cake in meringue though, so it doesn’t need to be too neat - just try to make sure the sides are relatively straight and the top is relatively flat. Refrigerate for a minimum of 30 minutes to chill while you make the meringue (or alternatively, you could refrigerate the cake overnight if making the day prior, then finish with the meringue on the day of your celebration).
For the Swiss meringue, place the egg whites and caster sugar in a clean large stand mixer bowl. Set over a saucepan one-third filled with boiling water, ensuring the water is not touching the base of the bowl (double-boiler). Keep the water heat so that it is just simmering and gently heat the egg whites and sugar, whisking by hand occasionally, until the egg whites are very warm and the sugar has fully dissolved (test this by dipping your thumb and forefinger into the egg white and rubbing them together – you shouldn’t feel any grains of sugar). Transfer the bowl back to the stand mixer and whisk on high speed until the meringue is very stiff and the mixing bowl has cooled to room temperature (about 5-7 minutes).
To finish assembly, carefully pipe or spread the swiss meringue over the cake to cover it completely. I say carefully, as the mascarpone cream underneath will not be fully set, so be careful not to press the meringue into cream or mix them together. If you spread the meringue gently with a palette knife you should be fine. At this stage, if you want a smooth finish to your meringue, you could use a cake scraper to gently smooth out the meringue around the sides of the cake. I think the meringue looks best with texture though, so I suggest taking a palette knife and making upward strokes from the base of the cake to the top edge, wiggling it like a worm to create an effect like that pictured.
Once you’re happy with how your meringue looks, use a kitchen blow torch to toast the meringue until golden and glorious. Finish the cake with fresh seasonal flowers and edible glitter, if desired. The cake is best eaten at room temperature, and should be kept in a cool dark place until serving. You can refrigerate the cake for a couple of hours if needed (ie if you’re in a warm environment), just ensure you bring it back to room temperature before serving. Any leftover cake can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 days.
Alby’s Advice:
Be brave, you’ve got this!
I do recommend making the fillings the day prior (the curd and the crémeux) to allow them to set and thicken nicely. When spooning into the middle of your mascarpone cream for each layer, be careful not to over fill, as you want to try and avoid the dam breaking and filling leaking out.
You can easily use a store bought lemon curd if desired. As a substitute for the crémeux (although this really makes the cake!), you could use lemon pastry cream, a thick custard, or more of the mascarpone cream.
Don’t worry that there is no raising agent (eg baking powder) in the cake batter ingredients. For this particular cake, you don’t need a raising agent.
Make sure you use a BIG mixing bowl, as it makes quite a lot of cake batter.
White chocolate lemon crémeux
This really is the epitome of luxe. Part custard, part ganache, big lemon flavour with the most incredible texture, it’s cake filling territory taken to the next level. It starts similarly to a lemon curd, then pouring this mixture over white chocolate to form a custard ganache, and finishing with cream for that luxurious texture. After chilling, the crémeux is whipped, the cream in its base thickening and forming the most heavenly cake filling imaginable. Equally, this would go excellently with a simple slice of cake, tart etc. to create a simple-yet-show-stopping dessert to impress guests.
Hands-on Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes (plus overnight to chill)
Cost Estimate: $9
Ingredients
150g white chocolate, finely chopped
2 eggs (about 100g)
3 egg yolks (about 55g)
finely grated zest of 2 lemons
75ml lemon juice
100g icing sugar
175ml cream
pinch of sea salt flakes
Method
For the crémeux, place the white chocolate in a medium-large bowl and place a sieve over the top; set aside. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest, lemon juice and icing sugar. Place over medium-low heat and cook, whisking regularly (including at the edges of the pan, to avoid it scrambling), until it reaches 80°C (it will be thickened and just starting to bubble). Immediately remove from the heat and pour through the sieve over top of the chocolate, whisking the mixture through the sieve (be sure to scrape it off the bottom of the sieve into the bowl) and discarding any remains. Whisk the lemon chocolate mixture together until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Add the cream and sea salt flakes, and using a stick blender, blitz until smooth and emulsified. Cover the surface directly with clingfilm, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours (or preferably overnight) to set. When ready to use, beat the crémeux with an electric hand or stand mixer for a couple of minutes until beautifully whipped and forming medium-stiff peaks. The crémeux will keep well in the fridge for 3 days until needing to use, if making in advance.
Alby’s Advice:
This recipe makes the perfect amount for the celebration cake recipe above. It will also make enough to scoop into quenelles as part of a dessert for 8-10 guests.
Be careful when heating the eggs/lemon not to let it go too far and scramble ~ if you let the temperature get above 85°C this is likely to occur. If this does occur, keep going, as when you blitz it with the chocolate and cream, it should smooth out any of these lumps. If your element tends to be on the hotter side, consider heating the eggs/lemon over low heat to reduce the risk of over-heating the mixture.
Make sure the chocolate is very finely chopped, to ensure it melts beautifully when the lemon.egg mixture is added.
Lemon curd
Homemade lemon curd really is a pinch, and this method I find requires far less finesse or faff than the common double-boiler method. It’s luscious, lemony and oh so good. I like to keep a jar of this in the fridge at all times ~ perfect for a quick dessert at a moment’s notice, perhaps with some yoghurt or ice cream and a crumble for that speedy sweet fix at the end of dinner.
Hands-on Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes (+ chilling time)
Cost Estimate: $18 (about $2 per serve)
Ingredients
100g egg yolks (from about 6 eggs)
150g caster sugar
100ml lemon juice
finely grated zest of 2 lemons
150g butter, cut into small cubes
Method
For the curd, in a medium heavy-based saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice and zest. Place over low heat and cook, whisking regularly along the bottom of the pan, until the curd is thickened and only just starting to bubble (this will take a few minutes). Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter, until smooth and thick. Strain through a sieve into a bowl and cover the surface with cling film to stop a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours (or preferably overnight) to chill and thicken. Alternatively you can pour the curd into a jar after straining, seal and chill ~ the curd will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge.
Alby’s Advice:
Low and slow is the key to a good lemon curd. Once it’s just coming to the boil (bubbles just starting at the edge) is the perfect time to remove from the heat and add the butter. Be sure to whisk along the bottom of the pan regularly to ensure it doesn’t burn or catch.
This recipe is easily doubled or tripled as needed. The larger the volume, the longer it will take to come to the boil.