Jump all in for asparagus

fun, fresh ways to use up the whole spear this spring

This week I’m going to keep my musings brief, as it’s been a hectic one; in fact, to give you a live context, I’m writing this waiting for 120 cupcakes to cool, that I’ll soon attempt to transform into a Katherine Mansfield-inspired garden party. My work life really does look different from 18 months ago!

Anyhow, the focus this week is on asparagus. Because the season is so fleeting, cooking with asparagus always feels a little sacred to me, as if I’m cooking with gold or some rare mineral. For 8 weeks of the year, from September to November, the perennial vegetable escapes its soil prison, pushing out its slender young delicious shoots for harvesting - and I love it!

Asparagus grows well in many of Aotearoa’s microclimates, but unfortunately due to my transient life in the past few years, I’ve never stayed in one place long enough to grow it myself. While you can grow asparagus from seed, it’s less time-consuming to plant it from crowns, which are established 2-year-old asparagus root systems. The awesome thing about asparagus is that once you have an established plant, it will continue producing annually for 20 years or more, so it is well worth the initial time and patience required - perhaps something to consider planting next winter.

But in the absence of homegrown, we’re so lucky to have some incredible asparagus growers in Aotearoa that are currently supplying your local markets and produce stores with the season’s best. Every year I get to December, and have major regrets that I didn't cook with asparagus more, so this spring I’d encourage you to jump all in on asparagus and make the most of its green goodness.

A good place to start is with this recipe for Citrus-roasted asparagus with herb labneh + Dijon chilli-caper dressing. Roasting asparagus in citrus zest/juice is my absolute favourite way to prepare it, and ensures that the asparagus is tender but retains its shape and green flavour. I find asparagus pairs well with clean flavours, and this recipe sees it blend deliciously with creamy yoghurt, bright herbs, and a little punch from Dijon and capers - an absolute must-make! Scroll down for another couple of recipes to also get you inspired, including a great way to use up those woody asparagus ends!

Much love,

Alby xx

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This week’s MOOD BOOSTER:

Woody asparagus + broccoli green ‘gazpacho’

Attempts should always be made to minimise food waste wherever possible, and this green ‘gazpacho’ (technically it isn’t really a gazpacho as there are no tomatoes in the recipe) does a brilliant job at using up those woody asparagus ends that you otherwise might throw to the compost. Store the asparagus ends in the fridge until you have enough to make this soup, or alternatively you can use the whole asparagus stalk. While I’ve suggested to serve the soup chilled, gazpacho-style, you can also serve the soup warm – just leave out the avocado flesh, as this will curdle when heated.

serves 4-6

Ingredients:

3 tbsp olive oil

1 medium brown onion, finely chopped

2 stalks celery (including leaves), diced

1 tsp sea salt, plus extra to taste

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tsp ground coriander

finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

200g woody asparagus ends (or whole asparagus), diced

350g broccoli (about 1 medium), stalk and head chopped into small florets/pieces

500g potatoes (about 2 medium), peeled and chopped into 2cm pieces

750ml vegetable stock

flesh of 1 large ripe avocado

20g flat-leaf parsley leaves (about 1 large handful), roughly chopped

200ml coconut cream, plus extra to serve

½ tsp cracked black pepper

Method:

Heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Once hot, add the onion, celery and 1 tsp salt, and sauté for 8 minutes until nicely softened. Add the garlic, coriander and lemon zest and cook for a further 2 minutes, tossing through. Add the asparagus ends, broccoli, potato, vegetable stock and 500ml water. Bring to the boil, then cover with a lid and simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes, until the vegetables are fully tender. Remove from the heat and blitz with a stick blender (or similar)  to as smooth as possible. Leave to cool at room temperature uncovered for 20 minutes, then add the avocado, parsley, coconut cream, black pepper and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning to taste with extra sea salt if needed. Blitz again with a stick blender until super smooth, then strain through a sieve (if desired) to remove any remaining lumps. Pour into a container and refrigerate until chilled. Serve the chilled gazpacho in bowls (feel free to loosen the soup with a little cold water if desired), topped with a drizzle of extra coconut cream.

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Good Vibes with Asparagus

Springtime Crostata, image from Good Vibes, photo by Aaron McLean

If you’re looking for more epic ways to use asparagus, the absolute ultimate is found in my new cookbook, Good Vibes, which in my unbiased opinion is definitely worth having on your kitchen bookshelf! On pg 62 you’ll find my recipe for Springtime Crostata with asparagus, kale, mint & ricotta. It’s a free-form tart that really does epitomise spring - making the most of seasonal produce and perfect for a long lunch with friends or a warming spring evening. On pg 81 you’ll also find my recipe for Citrus-roasted broccolini with hazelnut romesco, rocket & mint. Asparagus is a great substitute here - just sub in asparagus for the broccolini and roast at 160°C fan-forced (or 180°C conventional) for 15 minutes, instead of the 200°C fan-forced written for the broccolini.

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Best of the season this fortnight (NZ):

Brassicas

Spinach, Salad Greens

Asparagus

Late Grapefruit

Avocados

Early Broad Beans

Onion Weed

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Kitchen music of the moment:

• I’ve long been a fan of The Killers, and while they’re most well known intergenerationally for the single Mr Brightside, their Sam’s Town era is definitely my favourite. The lead singer Brandon Flowers has also released some solo stuff over the years, and I’ve never been quite as keen on it as I am the band’s work, but this past week I’ve really been enjoying the track Can’t Deny My Love, off his 2015 album The Desired Effect. Have a listen.

• And as I write this, I’m listening to the new album, Something To Give Each Other, from Australian singer Troye Sivan, which dropped this Friday. One track I particularly enjoyed is One Of Your Girls, which on hearing I instantly thought sounds similar to Nightcall by Kavinsky (famous from the soundtrack to the film Drive - great movie if you haven’t seen it!).

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Interesting reads:

• Growing concern for the threat of weaponisation of food

• A tax on ultra-processed foods?

• Food as an addiction

• Food inflation begins to slow, but is it too little, too late?

• Another divine-sounding simple asparagus recipe from NZ writer Lucy Corry